Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Evaluate

Fashion

Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Evaluate

10월 22, 2025

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That is the primary English overcoat I’ve ever had made – or a standard one anyway. There was the topcoat from Michael Browne, however that was his personal explicit type and construction. And there was the wrap coat from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, however that was kind of their model of a Parisian type.

That is the one traditional English bespoke coat, and it’s helpful as a result of it rounds out the Fashion Breakdown sequence that already had coats in most different kinds.

From a technical perspective, the fascinating factor about it’s how the development makes the coat smarter to put on, regardless of not having issues like a closely padded shoulder or roped sleevehead. The distinction is extra inside – English canvas and horsehair via the chest and lapels, hand-padded to offer form and swell to the chest.

There’s a sharpness to the highest third of the coat – the collar, shoulder, lapel and chest – which makes it much less wearable with informal issues like a easy sweater or different mushy knit.

I’m sporting a knit right here, however I intentionally selected this outfit to show what I’ve discovered is essentially the most informal factor the coat may be worn with – it wants that scarf on the neck as an alternative to a shirt collar, and the one various can be one thing like a rollneck, or after all a shirt itself.

The trousers, equally, may be flannels but it surely struggles with something extra informal. Maybe some relatively sharp tailor-made cottons, however not a chino or a jean.

That is regardless of Steven Hitchcock being a ‘mushy’ English tailor, and comparable in some ways to his alma mater Anderson & Sheppard. For me and my type, that is as structured as I often need a coat – and I’d put on it with a jacket and shirt simply as a lot as with a knit like this.

On condition that, brown tweed may seem to be a wierd selection for the fabric. However I discover it really works as a result of the tweed is such a darkish and muted brown, and so pretty city in really feel. Additionally as a result of a lot of my tailoring is pretty informal – flannels and cords relatively than superfine worsteds.

The fabric is Fox Tweed TD20, a top quality I do know properly having used it to make three jackets – inexperienced from The Anthology, herringbone from Salino (coming quickly to London), and houndstooth from Bryceland’s (the model we designed).

It’s 17/18oz, which is heavy for a jacket however mild for a coat. It may be the proper intersection of the 2 really – you wouldn’t wish to go a lot heavier for the primary or lighter for the second. Its density (in comparison with say my Harris Tweed) additionally ensures it retains good sharp line on a coat.

So, thus far I’m feeling fairly good about my selections. I additionally know this can be a color I’ll put on so much, as my ‘cold-colour’ wardrobe is so predominantly gray, cream, black and brown.

Truly, quite a lot of readers have requested lately about color selections for coats. Particularly, they wish to know which is greatest given they’ve trousers or fits in all the colors a wise coat would often be – navy, gray, charcoal, brown.

My reply is that except you might be proud of one thing extra uncommon, akin to taupe or camel, it’s important to dwell with the very fact your coat and trousers will typically be the identical color. It’s actually not an enormous drawback – a good distance down the record of points that begins with issues like go well with jackets worn as sports activities jackets, or belts and sneakers in utterly completely different colors.

Plus, your coat is more likely to be sufficiently completely different by way of weight and texture to visually separate it from the trousers.

By way of type, the coat is comparatively easy, with simply a few sartorial touches.

It’s a double-breasted 6×2, so with six buttons however with solely two rows functioning. It has common flapped hip pockets and a welt breast pocket. The again has a field pleat within the prime, a unfastened half belt and a protracted vent. Steven calls it a guardsman’s again.

That is the form of type that I believe quite a lot of extra classically minded readers choose. There are not one of the fancier parts like a buttoned belt, stitched pleats or buttons working down the vent. There’s nothing improper with these issues, however they’re too dandy for some, and if something fashions are most likely trending away from them.

The one design concession on Steven’s coat is turnback cuffs, which he notably likes and I do like on coats (much less on jackets). The opposite factor a couple of cuff, after all, is which you can take it off at a later date should you change your thoughts.

The reduce and make is excellent – not simply clear and well-fitted, however an incredible mixture of consolation and flattery. The chest is full, for instance, however with out the drapey folds you typically see at A&S; the sleeve is equally massive, but clear on the again.

The one factor I’d tweak having worn the coat is a number of instances is the size, which is slightly below the knee. One other couple of centimetres may be good, notably on the again. These flannels may additionally do with one other couple of centimetres.

Bespoke may be very costly nowadays, and Steven’s coats now begin at £5900 (plus VAT). However for a very well-executed Savile Row product, I’d actually suggest him. As everyone knows, the work concerned in a very good bespoke piece like this makes it one thing approaching an heirloom product – a really particular piece of clothes.